Cable & Wire Rope Cutters
Cable cutters slice copper and aluminum power cable, communication cable and steel wire rope. Using the wrong cutter, or cutting a live cable, causes crushed hands, flying strands, eye injuries and electrocution. The cutter has to match the material, and the cable has to be dead and verified before it’s cut.
- Electricians
- Riggers
- Utility & Telecom Workers
- Fence & Cable Installers
Types of cutters
| Cutter | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cable cutters (shear-type) | Copper and aluminum power cable (not steel) | Clean cut without crushing; cutting steel or hardened wire damages the blades |
| Ratcheting cable cutters | Larger copper and aluminum cable, with less hand force | Repeated squeezes advance the blade; some are insulated |
| Wire rope (cable) cutters | Steel wire rope, aircraft cable, steel strand | Hardened blades, often with long handles or bolt-cutter style |
| Bolt cutters | Chain, bolts and solid rod; not a substitute for rope cutters | See Bolt Cutters |
| Hydraulic or battery cutters | Large power cable, armored cable, thick wire rope | Powerful; hydraulic hazards and crushing. See Hydraulic Tools |
| Side cutters and diagonal pliers | Small wire only | See Pliers and Wire Strippers & Crimpers |
Look at the cutter’s rating: the maximum cable size and the material it’s designed for. Don’t cut harder or larger material than the maker states.
Main hazards
- Electrocution and arc flash from cutting a cable that is still energized, or one that is charged by an unseen source, induced voltage or backfeed. See Absence-of-Voltage Testing and Arc Flash.
- Crushed or pinched hands between the handles, or between handle and the work. Long-handled cutters need a wide swing.
- Flying ends and strands: a cut wire rope can whip, and tension stored in cable can spring apart. Broken wire strands (“fish hooks” or “meat hooks”) slice skin and gloves.
- Eye injuries from flying fragments and strands. See Eye Injuries.
- Damaged tools: blades that are chipped, dull, loose or misaligned slip, jam and break.
- Repetitive strain from cutting many cables by hand. See Ergonomic Hand Tools.
- Heavy cable falling or recoiling when cut, especially if it’s under tension, on a reel, in a trench or overhead. See Wire & Cable Pulling.
- Unknown cables: cutting through an unidentified cable in a wall, trench or panel is dangerous. See Hidden Wiring and Utility Strikes.
Before you cut
- Treat every cable as live until you prove otherwise. De-energize, lock out and tag out, and test for absence of voltage with a tester you’ve checked before and after. See Lockout/Tagout and Test Meters.
- Identify the cable. Make sure it is the right one: check drawings, tags and locate signals. For underground or concealed cables, use a locator and a spiking tool or remotely operated cutter where procedures require. Never cut an unidentified cable by hand.
- Use insulated tools rated for the voltage where the task allows, but never rely on insulated handles alone. See Insulated Hand Tools and Rubber Insulating Gloves.
- Choose the cutter for the cable type and size. Don’t use a copper-cable cutter on steel wire rope or armored cable unless rated.
- Check the tool: blades sharp and aligned, pivot tight, handles intact and insulation undamaged. Remove damaged cutters from service. See Tagging Out Damaged Tools.
- Plan for the cut ends. Decide where the ends will go, support them so they don’t fall or recoil, and keep them away from live parts.
- Wear PPE: safety glasses or a face shield, cut-resistant gloves, long sleeves and arc-rated clothing where electrical hazards exist. See Eye & Face Protection, Hand Protection and Arc Flash PPE Categories.
Cutting technique
- Cut square and in one motion, with the cable centered in the jaw and the cutter perpendicular to the cable. Don’t rock or twist the tool.
- Secure the cable. Clamp or hold it so it can’t move. For wire rope, put tape or a seizing on both sides of the planned cut so the strands don’t unravel. See Wire Rope.
- Stand to the side of the cut line, not in line with the cable, and keep your face and body clear. Keep your free hand out of the jaw.
- Use two hands and a stable stance. Use the full handle length for leverage, and don’t add cheater pipes to lengthen handles, since they can break the tool.
- Don’t cut cable under tension unless it’s secured and the energy is controlled, such as tensioned guy wires, bundled cable and cables in a pull. Release the tension first. See Supporting Exposed Utilities.
- Clean up strands and trimmings immediately. Sweep or collect them, since small wire pieces cause cuts and tire punctures.
- For large or armored cable, use a power cutter or the maker’s method, and keep hands out of the jaw and the hydraulic lines. Follow lockout for the hydraulic power source.
Care and storage
- Keep blades clean, oiled lightly and free of rust. Sharpen or replace dull blades, since dull blades crush cable and need more force.
- Don’t hammer on cutters, use them as pry bars or cut things they aren’t designed to cut.
- Store them closed or with a blade cover, dry and in a toolbox, and keep insulated cutters away from oil and solvents that could damage the insulation. See Toolboxes & Tool Storage.
- Inspect before each use, and test insulated tools at intervals as your program requires.
Cable cutting checklist
- The cable is identified, de-energized, locked out and tested for no voltage
- The cutter is rated for the cable type and size; blades, pivot and handles are in good shape
- I wear eye or face protection, cut-resistant gloves and the right clothing for electrical hazards
- The cable is clamped or taped, tension is released, and cut ends are supported
- I stand to the side and cut square in a single motion
- I clean up strands and store the tool properly
Standards & references
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