Fiberglass, Aluminum & Wood Ladders

Most portable ladders are made of fiberglass, aluminum or wood. Each material has strengths and weaknesses, and the wrong choice can create an electrical hazard or a ladder that fails under load. Choosing the right ladder for the job is part of preventing falls.

• Construction
• General Industry
• Home

Comparing materials

Electrical hazards

• Never use an aluminum or other metal ladder near energized lines or equipment, or where it could contact them. OSHA prohibits metal ladders where the ladder or the worker could contact exposed energized parts (29 CFR 1926.1053(b)(12) for construction, and 1910.23 and 1910.333 in general industry). See Overhead Power Lines.
• Fiberglass is not “safe” near power. It is non-conductive when clean and dry, but moisture, dirt, damaged rails, metal parts (such as rungs and braces) and wet conditions change that. Treat all ladders as hazards near energized parts, and keep your distance.
• Use a ladder rated and labeled for electrical work, keep it clean and dry, and follow your employer’s procedures. See Electrical Basics.
• Carrying a ladder upright into a power line has killed many workers. Carry it low and watch overhead.

Duty ratings

Ladders are labeled with a duty rating showing the maximum load (the user, tools and materials combined):

Remember that you must add your body weight, your tools and what you carry. Choose Type I or higher for most work. Look at the label for the rating and the maker’s warnings. See Ladder Basics, Step Ladders and Extension Ladders.

Inspecting each material

• All ladders: look for loose or missing rungs, steps and rivets, damaged feet, bent or cracked rails, working locks and spreaders, and readable labels. Take defective ladders out of service and tag them. See Tagging Out Damaged Tools.
• Fiberglass: check for cracks, chips, blooming (a rough, fibrous surface from sun damage), splinters, gouges and damaged resin. Splinters can cut skin, so wear gloves when handling a damaged ladder, and take it out of service.
• Aluminum: look for dents, bends, kinks, cracks near rungs, and corrosion. A bent rail is a weak spot. Don’t straighten a bent ladder.
• Wood: look for cracks, splits, rot, loose rungs and signs of decay or insect damage. Don’t paint a wood ladder with an opaque coating, which can hide defects. Use clear coatings, and keep it dry.
• Check for oil, grease, paint and mud on rungs and steps.

Choosing the right ladder

• Match the ladder to the job: height, load, and the place you’ll use it. Pick a ladder long enough to reach without standing on the top steps. See Platform Ladders.
• Think about electricity first. If there’s any chance of electrical contact, use a ladder suited to electrical work, and keep your distance.
• Think about weather and chemicals: fiberglass and aluminum hold up in rain. Some chemicals and sunlight can damage fiberglass, and salt can corrode aluminum.
• Weight and handling: a lighter ladder is easier to carry and set up correctly, which makes people less likely to cut corners. Consider ladder accessories such as levelers. See Fixed Ladders for permanent installations.
• Standards: look for ladders made to ANSI A14 standards (for example A14.1 for wood, A14.2 for metal and A14.5 for fiberglass), and check the current labels.

Care and storage

• Clean ladders after use. Store them in a dry place, supported along their length, out of the sun and away from heat, and secured on a vehicle with straps, not left to bounce.
• Don’t leave fiberglass ladders in direct sun for long periods, or near chemicals.
• Don’t paint over labels or modify a ladder.

Ladder choice checklist

• The ladder’s duty rating covers my weight plus tools and materials
• No metal ladder is used near electricity, and I know the clearances to lines
• I inspected the ladder for the damage that applies to its material
• The ladder is the right height and type for the job
• I’m storing it clean, dry and supported

Last updated: October 4, 2026