Sharpening & Maintaining Hand Tools

A sharp tool is a safer tool. Dull blades need more force, slip, and cause cuts and strains, while sharp ones cut cleanly and predictably. But sharpening itself has hazards: flying sparks and wheel fragments, cut fingers and burns. Knowing how to sharpen and keep tools in good shape reduces injuries and extends tool life.

• All Trades
• Carpentry
• Landscaping

Why maintenance matters

• Dull chisels, knives, axes, shovels and saws require more force and slip off the work, which causes lacerations and strains.
• Damaged tools, such as mushroomed heads, split handles and loose heads, can break and send fragments flying. See Hand Tool Basics.
• OSHA requires employers to ensure hand tools, including those workers own, are in safe condition (29 CFR 1926.301 and 1910.242). See Tagging Out Damaged Tools.

Methods of sharpening

Safe sharpening by hand

• Secure the tool in a vise or clamp, or use a sharpening guide, so it doesn’t slip. Don’t hold a blade in one hand while pushing a stone with the other near your fingers, if you can clamp it. See Clamps & Vises.
• Push the stone or file away from your body and your free hand, in a controlled stroke. Keep fingers behind the cutting edge.
• Wear cut-resistant gloves if the task allows, and safety glasses. See Hand Protection and Eye & Face Protection.
• Work on a stable bench with good light, and keep the work area clean of oil and metal filings that cause slips.
• Use the right angle, following the tool’s original bevel, and check the edge on a scrap, not your thumb.
• Remove the burr that forms on the back of the edge, with a light pass of the stone or a strop.
• Put guards back on: cover blades with sheaths and edge guards after sharpening. See Utility Knives and Axes & Hatchets.
• Clean filings and oil from the work area and your hands.

• Don’t sharpen with the tool held against your leg or body, or while distracted.
• Don’t use a file without a handle, since the tang can stab your palm.
• Don’t leave a sharpened blade unprotected in a toolbox or pocket.
• Don’t test a blade by running your finger across the edge. Use paper or a scrap of wood.

Bench grinder safety

Grinding wheels spin at thousands of rpm. A cracked or poorly mounted wheel can burst and send pieces flying with deadly force. OSHA’s abrasive wheel rule (29 CFR 1910.215) covers guards and rests. Key points:

• Guards: keep wheel guards in place. The guard should cover most of the wheel, and the exposed area must be small. A tongue guard (the adjustable piece at the top) should be set within about 1/4 inch of the wheel and adjusted as the wheel wears.
• Work rest: the tool rest must be set within about 1/8 inch of the wheel, and never adjusted while the wheel is moving. A big gap lets the work jam between wheel and rest, which can break the wheel or throw the tool.
• Inspect the wheel before mounting: check for cracks, chips and damage. Do the ring test on vitrified wheels: tap gently with a non-metallic object, and a good wheel rings clearly, while a cracked one sounds dull.
• Use the right wheel for the grinder and the job, with a speed rating (rpm) at or above the grinder’s speed. Don’t use a wheel made for another machine. Use blotters and flanges as designed.
• Let a new wheel run with the guard on, and stand to the side for about a minute before using.
• Face and eye protection: wear safety glasses and a face shield, since sparks and fragments fly. Wear hearing protection and no loose clothing, jewelry or gloves that can catch.
• Grind on the face of the wheel, as designed, and don’t grind on the side of a straight wheel. Use light pressure and don’t force.
• Don’t overheat the steel. Dip the tool in water often to cool it. Blue or purple color means the temper is ruined and the edge will be soft. Don’t quench a hot tool if the maker says not to, and don’t grind aluminum or soft metals on a stone made for steel.
• Keep flammables away, since sparks start fires. Keep a clear area and an extinguisher nearby. See Fire Extinguishers (PASS).
• Dust: grinding makes dust. Use dust collection or a respirator for some materials. See Respiratory Protection.

Maintaining other hand tools

• Mushroomed heads on chisels, punches, wedges and sledges can crack and fly off. Grind the burred edge back to the original shape. See Chisels & Punches and Sledgehammers.
• Handles: replace split, cracked or loose handles, and don’t tape over damage. Re-wedge loose heads properly. Make sure that a new handle fits the tool and is the right wood, usually hickory or a suitable fiberglass. See Hammers.
• Screwdrivers and wrenches: replace worn tips and jaws that slip. See Screwdrivers and Wrenches.
• Saws: keep teeth sharp and set, and use blade guards. See Hand Saws.
• Pruners and loppers: clean and sharpen blades, and oil pivots. See Pruners & Loppers.
• Rust and dirt: wipe tools after use, oil them lightly and store them dry.
• Inspection: look for cracks, wear and damage each time you use the tool, and repair or replace.

Storage

• Store tools in racks, rolls, sheaths or boxes with the edges protected and the handles accessible.
• Keep the toolbox organized so you don’t reach into a pile of blades. See toolboxes and tool storage and Tool Tethering for tools used at height.
• Keep tools dry, and out of the reach of children.

Sharpening checklist

• The tool is clamped or held in a guide; strokes go away from my body
• Safety glasses on; face shield and hearing protection if using a grinder
• Grinder guards, tongue guard and tool rest are set; the wheel is checked and rated for the speed
• The steel is kept cool, and the burr removed
• Handles, heads and edges inspected; damaged tools repaired or replaced
• Sharp tools covered and stored safely

Last updated: October 4, 2026