Stationary Band Saws
A stationary band saw uses a continuous toothed steel blade running over two or more wheels to make straight, curved and resawn cuts in wood, metal, plastic and meat. Compared with a table saw, the blade moves downward toward the table, so kickback is rare, but fingers can still be cut in a split second, blades break, and metal cutting adds chips, coolant and heavy stock. Setup and guarding do most of the work.
- Woodworkers
- Machinists & Fabricators
- Shop Workers
Types and uses
- Vertical wood band saws cut curves, resaw lumber and cut round and irregular stock.
- Vertical metal-cutting band saws (contour saws) cut metal with variable speed, sometimes with a blade welder.
- Horizontal metal band saws (cutoff saws) clamp bar, pipe and structural shapes and lower the blade through the stock, often with coolant. See Metal Chop Saws and Portable Band Saws.
- Meat and food band saws have special sanitation and guarding rules and are used in kitchens and processing plants.
OSHA’s woodworking machinery rule (29 CFR 1910.213) requires guards on band saw blades and wheels, and the general machine guarding rules apply to metal saws. See Machine Guarding.
Main hazards
- Cuts and amputations from contact with the blade at the point of cut or along the exposed teeth.
- Blade breakage: a broken blade can whip out, and fragments can cut or strike you. Overtightened, dull or fatigued blades, wrong blade for the cut and too much force cause breaks.
- Stock kick and loss of control: round stock can roll, and small pieces can be pulled in or thrown.
- Entanglement in wheels, belts and pulleys, if guards are missing.
- Dust: wood dust is a health and fire hazard, and metal cutting makes chips and mist. See Wood Dust and Dust Extractors.
- Noise and vibration. See Noise.
- Hot chips and coolant: burns, slips from coolant on the floor and skin problems. See Skin Disease & Dermatitis.
- Heavy stock falling from a table or clamp, and back strain when loading. See Lifting & Ergonomics.
Setup and guarding
- Keep guards in place. The wheels must be fully enclosed, and the blade guarded on all sides except at the cut. The upper guide guard must adjust to about 1/4 inch above the stock being cut. Leave the guide as low as possible, since a high blade exposes more teeth.
- Choose the right blade: width, tooth pitch and set for the material and the cut. Narrow blades cut tight curves, wide blades cut straight and resaw. For metal, match tooth pitch to material thickness so at least two or three teeth are in the cut.
- Tension and track the blade as the manual says. Too tight breaks blades and too loose wanders. Check the tracking by hand with the power off and the door closed.
- Set blade guides (side guides and thrust bearing) close to the blade, as the maker directs, and keep the table clean and flat.
- Use a stable base: bolt or anchor the saw as needed, and ensure adequate lighting and clear space around it. Provide dust collection or chip control.
- Inspect before use: check the blade for cracks, missing teeth, dullness and kinks, and check the wheels, tires, guards, switch and emergency stop. Don’t use a cracked blade, which can break. See Tagging Out Damaged Tools.
Cutting safely
- Wear safety glasses or a face shield, hearing protection and a dust mask or respirator as needed. Tie back hair and remove jewelry, gloves near the blade and loose clothing. See Eye & Face Protection and Hearing Protection.
- Let the blade reach full speed before cutting. Feed the stock steadily, without forcing, and let the saw cut at its own pace. Back out slowly if the blade binds, after turning the saw off.
- Support the work on the table. Use a fence, miter gauge or jig for straight cuts and a sled or V-block for round stock. Never cut round stock freehand without a jig, because it can roll into the blade.
- Keep your hands out of the line of the blade, and use push sticks or pushers when your hands would otherwise be close. Keep fingers to the side of the blade and not behind or in front of the cut line.
- Make relief cuts before cutting tight curves, to avoid binding and twisting the blade. Don’t back out of a long curved cut without stopping the saw.
- Don’t cut small pieces by hand, and don’t cut stock that is too short to hold safely. Use jigs and clamps.
- For metal: clamp the stock firmly in the vise, use coolant or cutting fluid as needed and the correct speed for the material. Lower the blade slowly onto the work. Don’t force a cut, and support long stock so it won’t drop at the end of the cut.
- Wait for the blade to stop before removing waste or touching the table. Don’t use your hands to brake the blade, and use a brush or hook to clear chips.
- Never leave the saw running unattended.
Blade changes and maintenance
- Unplug or lock out before changing blades, adjusting guides, cleaning or clearing a jam. See Lockout/Tagout.
- Wear cut-resistant gloves when handling blades, with the teeth turned away from you, and coil blades safely, or use a blade guard for storage. See Hand Protection.
- Release tension before removing the blade, and follow the maker’s instructions for replacing and re-tensioning. Check tracking and guides after every change.
- Keep wheels, tires and the table clean. Remove pitch and sawdust, and clean metal chips and coolant from the machine regularly.
- Replace worn wheel tires, bearings and guides. Keep the machine lubricated as directed.
- Clean coolant tanks and manage metal chips and oily waste properly to avoid slips and fire. See Oily Rags & Spontaneous Combustion.
Band saw checklist
- Wheel and blade guards are in place; the upper guide is about 1/4 inch above the stock
- The blade is the right type, sharp, undamaged, properly tensioned and tracking
- I wear eye and hearing protection, with loose clothing and jewelry secured
- The work is supported, with jigs for round stock; my hands stay clear of the blade line
- I wait for the blade to stop before clearing waste, and never leave the saw running
- The saw is unplugged or locked out for blade changes and adjustments
Standards & references
Last updated: