Portable Band Saws

Electricians, plumbers, pipefitters and steel workers use portable band saws to cut conduit, pipe, strut, angle iron and threaded rod. The exposed section of blade is small, but it cuts fingers as easily as steel. Most injuries come from unclamped work, blades that grab or break, and hands that end up in the cut line.

• Construction
• General Industry
• Electricians
• Plumbers & Pipefitters

What a portable band saw is

• A hand-held saw with a continuous loop of blade that runs around two wheels. Only a short length of blade is exposed at the front, between the guard and the work.
• It is also called a “portaband” or “deep-cut band saw.” The deep throat lets it cut through pipe, channel and large stock that a reciprocating saw handles slowly or roughly.
• Models run on a cord or a battery. Many have variable speed, a trigger lock and a blade guard that covers the blade except where it cuts.
• Compared with a reciprocating saw, a band saw cuts smoother and straighter, vibrates less and kicks less. It is not a replacement for a stationary band saw, which holds the stock for you. See Stationary Band Saws and Reciprocating Saws.

Main hazards

Before you cut

• Read the manual and know where the trigger lock, speed control and guard adjustments are
• Inspect the saw: cord and plug, switch, blade guard, wheels and housing. Tag out and don’t use a damaged tool. See Tagging Out Damaged Tools
• Inspect the blade for missing or chipped teeth, cracks near the weld, twist and wear
• Check that the blade runs in the guides and the tension is correct
• Plug a corded saw into a GFCI-protected outlet. See GFCI Protection
• Confirm the pipe, conduit or strut is not energized, pressurized or carrying a hazardous product
• Set up good footing, lighting and a clear work area with no cords across the cut line
• Put on safety glasses, hearing protection and gloves for handling the work. See Eye & Face Protection and Hearing Protection

Choosing the blade

The right blade depends on how thick the material is where the blade cuts. Teeth per inch (TPI) is the key number. A good rule is to keep at least three teeth in the material at all times. Fewer teeth can catch and strip, and too many teeth clog.

• Use blades made for your saw’s size and for metal. Bi-metal blades last longer than plain carbon blades.
• Choose a speed to match the metal: slower for thick or hard metal such as stainless, faster for soft metal and thin wall. Cutting wax or lubricant extends blade life and cuts cooler.
• Use a new blade for stainless, hardened or abrasive material. A dull blade needs more pressure, which is when blades grab and break.

Cutting safely

• Clamp the work in a vise, pipe stand or pipe-clamp chain vise. Never hold it in your hand, against your leg or with your foot.
• Support the work on both sides of the cut so the cut-off end doesn’t sag, pinch the blade or drop on your foot.
• Start the saw before touching the work, let the blade reach full speed, then ease it into the cut with the guard or shoe resting on the material.
• Use both hands on the handles and keep your body out of the line of the blade.
• Let the saw’s weight and speed do the cutting. Use steady, light pressure and don’t twist or force the blade sideways.
• When you reach the end of the cut, support the saw so it doesn’t drop through, and release the trigger as the blade breaks through.
• Wait for the blade to stop completely before setting the saw down or moving it away. Rest it with the blade off the ground and away from your body.
• Use a vise or fixture to deburr the cut edges. Wear gloves to handle hot, sharp cut ends.

• Don’t reach under or around the blade while it’s running or coasting.
• Don’t cut pipe or conduit that may be energized or pressurized.
• Don’t remove, tie back or defeat the blade guard or the trigger.
• Don’t cut with the blade running before it touches the work; don’t drop the saw onto the work.
• Don’t use a saw with a damaged cord, a cracked housing or a switch that sticks.
• Don’t wear loose sleeves, jewelry or dangling cords, and tie back long hair.

Cutting pipe, conduit, strut and rod

• Pipe and conduit: make sure the line is dead, drained and clear of gas or pressure before cutting. Verify with a tester, and follow lockout procedures. See Lockout/Tagout. Cutting into live conductors or a pressurized line can cause a shock, a fire or a blast.
• Strut channel: clamp it so the channel can’t spin or flex. Cut slowly where the blade passes through the open side, since a blade can catch on the thin flanges. Support both ends.
• Threaded rod: use a vise with soft jaws or two nuts on the rod so you can clamp it without crushing the thread. Cut near the vise to limit whipping.
• Overhead or in tight spaces: cutting overhead puts the blade, chips and offcuts above you. Use a lift or platform, support the offcut and consider a different tool. Keep your face out of the chip path.
• Roundstock and tube: a round pipe wants to roll. Use a V-block or chain vise and rotate the pipe as needed.

Fumes, fire and noise

• Hot chips and sparks can ignite fuel, solvent vapors, insulation and sawdust. Move flammables away, or use a different method and a hot work permit if required. See Welding & Cutting.
• Galvanized, coated or stainless metal can give off metal fumes when cut and heated. Work in open air or with local ventilation, and use a respirator if needed. See Welding Fume.
• Old pipe may contain lead, asbestos or other hazardous coatings or insulation. Don’t cut it until it has been identified.
• Portable band saws are loud, especially on thin metal. Wear hearing protection, and give the saw space on resonating strut and sheet.

Blade changes, cords and batteries

• Unplug the saw or remove the battery before changing blades, adjusting guides or clearing a jam. See Lockout/Tagout.
• Wear gloves when changing blades. Release the tension as the maker shows, fit the new blade with teeth facing the right direction (usually toward the front), and set the guides.
• Store spare blades in their case, and dispose of old blades in a sharps container or wrapped, never loose in a bin.
• Cords: keep them clear of the blade and the work, avoid sharp edges and puddles, and replace damaged cords. Use a heavy-duty extension cord of the right gauge.
• Batteries: use the right charger, don’t charge on flammable surfaces, and remove the battery for storage. See Battery Safety.
• Clean chips and cutting wax from the saw after use, and store it dry with the blade guard in place.

Portable band saw checklist

• Saw, cord, guard and switch inspected; blade sharp and right for the material
• Work clamped and supported on both sides of the cut
• Pipe or conduit verified dead and unpressurized
• Safety glasses, hearing protection and gloves on; loose clothing secured
• GFCI in use; cord clear of the cut line
• Saw started before touching the work, and stopped completely before setting it down
• Power disconnected for blade changes

Last updated: October 11, 2026